Stepantsminda, Georgia — A Week in the High Mountains Near Kazbek

When people hear “Georgia,” they often think of the U.S. state. But there is another Georgia — a breathtaking country in the Caucasus Mountains with access to the Black Sea.
This article is about that Georgia — specifically its high-mountain region.
I found myself in a small yet incredibly charming village called Stepantsminda.

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If I had to start my story about Georgia from one single place, it would be here.
Stepantsminda left a strong impression on me. It filled my memory with dramatic mountain landscapes and the peaceful rhythm of a small alpine village — the kind of place every nature lover should experience at least once.
For me, Georgia means safety, incredibly delicious and diverse food, relatively affordable prices for groceries and accommodation, and extraordinary nature — mountains and the sea in one country.
Below, I’ll share my personal story about visiting this place. But first, a few general facts — blended with my own experience.

Out of all the countries I’ve visited, Georgia is the one I can talk about the most.
I spent several months here as a traveler who genuinely wanted to experience the local vibe — not just see the sights. And I believe I managed to do exactly that.

Stepantsminda is located in northern Georgia, in the mountainous Kazbegi region. It is best known as the starting point for climbing Mount Kazbek, which rises over 5,000 meters above sea level.
Kazbek is a dormant volcano and one of the highest peaks in the Caucasus.
The village itself sits at an altitude of more than 1,700 meters and has a population of around 1,500 people.
There are several small settlements nearby, and each one is worth visiting. The landscapes are stunning everywhere you look — dramatic valleys, rocky slopes, churches on hilltops, ancient towers, and natural mineral springs.

I spent one week here in mid-autumn.
In summer, the altitude makes the climate pleasantly cool. But by autumn, the nights were already quite cold — though I didn’t experience frost or snow during my stay.

At the end of September, I booked a room in a guesthouse through a well-known accommodation platform. Finding it wasn’t easy at first — the village is quite hilly, and the streets are far from perfectly aligned.
But that irregular layout actually adds to the charm. It creates an authentic atmosphere that feels natural and unpolished — perfect for slowing down and enjoying rural life.
I paid around 8 euros per night. The rooms were designed for two or three people, but I paid for a single bed and ended up staying alone in the room.
At that moment, the price was slightly higher than usual. In general, Georgia is very affordable, and similar accommodation had cost even less before.
The guesthouse wasn’t a typical hotel — it was an older family home where the hostess lived with her family. There was also a separate building on the property.
There are hotels in the village for every budget, but I prefer staying with local families. It allows for more genuine conversations and cultural exchange.
The hostess and her son didn’t speak much English, but their experience with international guests made communication surprisingly smooth — even if not perfectly precise.

This was my first accommodation in Georgia.
Inside the house, I noticed a small corner with Orthodox icons and a Bible. Nearby — both within the village and in the surrounding hills — there were churches.
All of this created a particular atmosphere. For me personally, it felt calming and grounding.
My overall feeling during that week was warm and peaceful.

After checking in, I walked down to the village center to buy groceries and cook.
There were several small shops. Prices were slightly higher than what I was used to, but nothing unreasonable.
Some examples:

• 185 g pack of croissants — about 2€
• 1 liter of milk (3.6%) — 1.4€
• 500 g oatmeal — 1.27€
• 425 g canned green peas — 0.87€
• 400 g pasta — 0.60€
• 380 ml of Matsoni (traditional Georgian fermented dairy) — 0.87€
• 300 g sour cream (25%) — around 1.73€

But honestly, the condition of the guesthouse mattered less than one key thing: the view.
From my window, I could see snow-covered rocky peaks and mist drifting between them.
Sometimes I would take a cup of hot tea onto the small terrace and simply sit there, looking at Mount Kazbek in silence.
Moments like that are difficult to explain — you just feel them.

There is a church within the village itself.
If you hike uphill in either direction for about 1 hour and 15 minutes, you can reach another stunning hilltop church. There is also a road for cars.
During my hikes, I met many other travelers — from Australia, Germany, Spain, Norway, the Czech Republic, Poland, Ireland, and many more countries.
Some simply greeted me. With others, I had short conversations. It was always interesting to learn where people had come from and what had brought them here.
Most visitors come to climb Kazbek. Fewer come just to wander through the landscapes — which is what I mainly did.

Twice, I hiked to the local mineral springs — known as narzans.
I was aware that mineral water should be consumed in moderation and ideally after consulting a doctor. Still, like many curious travelers, I drank directly from the source.
One day, I slightly overdid it.
Thankfully, there was a pharmacy in the village. I bought medication that helped with the mild stomach discomfort and frequent trips to the bathroom.
If you plan to try mineral springs, I recommend reading about them beforehand and understanding how your body reacts to mineral water.
A bit further beyond the springs, I discovered ancient stone towers — part of what felt like a small abandoned settlement. The walk there was over 6 km one way.

After long walks, I would return to my room and cook dinner.
One evening, I prepared boiled khinkali — a traditional Georgian dish. It’s minced meat with spices (and usually onions) wrapped in dough and shaped somewhat like a small pouch.
Served with sour cream, tea, and fresh tomatoes, it was simple, filling, and satisfying.
There are restaurants in the village where you can order khinkali, but cooking for yourself is always cheaper — and you can eat more for less money.

Since I planned to continue traveling around Georgia as a tourist and travel blogger, I bought a SIM card with unlimited internet for about 10 euros per month.
I didn’t need to provide passport details. I purchased it at a small kiosk near the local bus station and used it in my smartphone without any issues.
In the guesthouse, new travelers arrived almost daily. It was always interesting to talk — to hear where they had been and where they were heading next.
I didn’t attempt to climb Kazbek myself. I was traveling alone, hadn’t prepared, and didn’t have proper gear.

I truly fell in love with this place.
I often think about returning for a couple of weeks — to hike more, to finally attempt the climb to Kazbek, to meet new people, to enjoy Georgian food again, and maybe — carefully and in moderation — drink mineral water from the springs once more.
One day during that week, I took a small bus to the capital, Tbilisi. The ticket cost about 5 euros.
The road was winding, sometimes running alongside deep gorges. The journey itself was dramatic and beautiful.

Other articles about Georgia can be found in the relevant section of this website:
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