A Journey to Montenegro: The Train, Bar, and Budva
Our trip to Montenegro began with an overnight train from Belgrade — the capital of Serbia — to the coastal town of Bar.
Belgrade train station. This is a double-decker train; we traveled on it from Novi Sad to Belgrade. It was comfortable and fast. We're traveling to Montenegro on the old train.
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The train left at 20:20, and we arrived the next morning at 7:23. My wife came up with a great lifehack: instead of paying for an extra hotel night, spend it sleeping in your berth on the train — by the time you wake up, you’re already in another country. You travel, save money, and wake up somewhere new without losing a day.
The ticket cost 1912 Serbian dinars, just under 19 dollars.
The ticket cost 1912 Serbian dinars, just under 19 dollars.
Train ticket from Belgrade to Bar (the name of the town in Montenegro where we were heading)in a six-berth compartment
We chose a six-berth sleeper compartment, and both of us ended up on the top bunks. There’s no way to sit upright there — only lie down. Space is tight, but still manageable.
The compartment has 3 bunks on one side and the same number on the opposite side
Later I found out that we could have booked a four-berth compartment, which is much more comfortable. That’s what we eventually did on our way back from Montenegro. But since the four-berth is more expensive, the decision still made sense.
Perhaps only children would be able to sit with a straight back on the beds in this type of compartment. Adults can only lie in a horizontal position.
For me, the most important thing is having decent compartment-mates — the emotional vibe during a trip matters a lot.
The train passed through incredible scenery: bridges, mountains, forests, gorgeous rivers, and old monumental viaducts — though we could only properly see them at dawn.
The train passed through incredible scenery: bridges, mountains, forests, gorgeous rivers, and old monumental viaducts — though we could only properly see them at dawn.
The first thing we saw at dawn in Montenegro was the amazing nature
Most of the mountainous Serbia and Montenegro segments happened at night. The trip itself was calm, and our compartment neighbors turned out to be quite chatty. One surprising thing was that people smoked cigarettes right in the narrow hallway of the train — seemingly without concern — even though, as far as I know, smoking inside trains is officially prohibited.
Right in this aisle of the train car, some passengers were standing and smoking
In the middle of the night, while everyone was either asleep or trying to fall asleep, the train stopped and stayed still for quite a while. I’ve traveled long-distance by train before, so at first I didn’t think much of it. Later we heard from other passengers that a drunk group in a neighboring car had smashed a window — whether on purpose or by accident wasn’t clear — and staff had to deal with them. That’s why the train remained stopped for maybe around an hour or so. It didn’t affect us in any meaningful way other than the extra waiting time.
People who smoked didn’t even go to the vestibule — they just stepped out into the narrow corridor, which is normally the place where passengers stand if they don’t want to lie down in a six-berth cabin, since sitting there is physically impossible.
I wanted something hot — tea or coffee. The conductor had boiling water in a large thermos, and when I asked how to get some, he offered to sell it. Half a liter was about 1 euro.
Where I come from, every train carriage has free hot water that you can take anytime, so this system was new to me.
As we approached Podgorica, Montenegro’s capital, dawn was breaking, and we could finally see the landscape.
People who smoked didn’t even go to the vestibule — they just stepped out into the narrow corridor, which is normally the place where passengers stand if they don’t want to lie down in a six-berth cabin, since sitting there is physically impossible.
I wanted something hot — tea or coffee. The conductor had boiling water in a large thermos, and when I asked how to get some, he offered to sell it. Half a liter was about 1 euro.
Where I come from, every train carriage has free hot water that you can take anytime, so this system was new to me.
As we approached Podgorica, Montenegro’s capital, dawn was breaking, and we could finally see the landscape.
Some railway station in Montenegro
The weather was cloudy, but the views were impressive. A beautiful lake — Skadar Lake — appeared about 30 km before Bar, surrounded by mountains.
Lakes, mountains, rivers and forests are the true wealth of this state
It’s the largest lake in the Balkans: roughly 67% belongs to Montenegro and the rest to Albania.
Upon arriving in Bar, our first impression was the lush scenery: pineapple-shaped palm trees, bright flowering bushes, mountains on one side, sea on the other, birds singing, and only a few people around — it was just after 8 AM and still early in the season.
Upon arriving in Bar, our first impression was the lush scenery: pineapple-shaped palm trees, bright flowering bushes, mountains on one side, sea on the other, birds singing, and only a few people around — it was just after 8 AM and still early in the season.
The last days of May in the town of Bar greeted us with lush vegetation
A light fog hung over the town, giving everything a soft, calm feel. It felt like freedom and the start of a vacation.
The station itself is quite old, likely from the Yugoslav era. Some trains were covered in graffiti and looked worn-out. I had imagined Montenegro as not only a land of stunning nature but also a more European-style environment. The Bar train station, where all Montenegro railway routes end, is definitely not its best showcase — though it does hint at the country’s true state.
The station itself is quite old, likely from the Yugoslav era. Some trains were covered in graffiti and looked worn-out. I had imagined Montenegro as not only a land of stunning nature but also a more European-style environment. The Bar train station, where all Montenegro railway routes end, is definitely not its best showcase — though it does hint at the country’s true state.
a little further if you exit the railway station into the town
Just a few hundred meters away, we saw a church with two towers — very authentic, with real bell sounds echoing around. I later read online that the bells are extremely loud and ring every 15 minutes, which isn’t ideal for those living nearby. But for us passing by, it added to the atmosphere. They say most of the congregation on Sundays consists of Poles.
church in the town of Bar
A fellow passenger we met on the train — who had rented an apartment here for several months for 550 euros — recommended a small shopping center where we tried pljeskavica: a burger with a grilled patty for just 2 euros. Delicious and cheap. Prices for ready-made food later turned out to be much higher.
Even public restrooms cost 1 euro — the highest price for a toilet I’ve ever seen.
Even public restrooms cost 1 euro — the highest price for a toilet I’ve ever seen.
Prices for a local burger at a shopping center, and the pleskavica itself in the photo
Walking through Bar, you constantly see the sea and mountains. By late May, the vegetation is already lush: bushes, flowering plants, birds everywhere.
The city greeted us with a beautiful promenade full of benches, playgrounds, piers, and yachts. There was a big metal anchor as a monument. Bar isn’t fully a resort town — it has industrial areas — but the views are still fantastic. Our talkative train neighbor admired Bar so much that when he heard we booked accommodation in Budva, he even suggested canceling it and staying here instead.
But our goal was Budva, at least for the next few days.
On the promenade, yachts and small boats were docked — quite charming. Playgrounds and artistic installations made the area cozy and pleasant.
But our goal was Budva, at least for the next few days.
On the promenade, yachts and small boats were docked — quite charming. Playgrounds and artistic installations made the area cozy and pleasant.
palm trees, promenade paths and sports grounds along with playgrounds
“Take your money and spend it on travel,” I thought.
The mountains looked incredible — rocky cliffs, fluffy forests, and palms below.
We saw a cute signpost pointing to different cities and attractions, and a stylish sail-shaped monument. Small details, but they enhance the resort vibe.
The mountains looked incredible — rocky cliffs, fluffy forests, and palms below.
We saw a cute signpost pointing to different cities and attractions, and a stylish sail-shaped monument. Small details, but they enhance the resort vibe.
A sail-shaped sign showing directions and distances to cities
We took a photo by the “I ♥ Bar” sign.
I ♥ Bar
Nearby were tennis and ping-pong courts. A bit further we noticed another church with interesting architectural elements.
Mobile connection and internet were easy: we bought a SIM card for 5 or 10 euros (I don’t remember exactly). Here, unlike Serbia, they register SIM cards using your passport.
Mobile connection and internet were easy: we bought a SIM card for 5 or 10 euros (I don’t remember exactly). Here, unlike Serbia, they register SIM cards using your passport.
Montenegrin SIM card for €10
We headed to the bus station — from there you can travel to Podgorica, Tivat (both have airports), Serbia, Croatia, and more. We took a photo of the schedule just in case.
Interestingly, some routes don’t run on Saturdays, and others skip certain hours on Sundays.
bus schedule on A4 sheets
Later we learned that most grocery stores in Montenegro are closed on Sundays — a real cultural shock for us.
Next, we went to Budva.
Next, we went to Budva.
Embankment in Budva
After checking in, we enjoyed dinner on our balcony overlooking the mountains and the sea — though the sea was about a 15-minute walk away. The streets around the city center are paved, with sidewalks and lots of nice benches.
Фото23 с балкона номера за 25 евро в сутки за двоих, где есть своя мини кухня и санузел внутри.
Фото23 с балкона номера за 25 евро в сутки за двоих, где есть своя мини кухня и санузел внутри.
View from the balcony of a room for 25 euros per night for two people, which has its own mini kitchen and bathroom inside.
Nearby we found an offline crypto-exchange office where, starting from 500 USDT, you could exchange money — which can be quite convenient for certain travelers these days.
the name of the town in large multi-colored letters
The seaside promenade in Budva is full of cafés right by the water, piers with boats and yachts, and many signs advertising fishing trips and boat tours. Interestingly, most of the ads are in three languages: the first is Montenegrin, the third is English, and the second… I’ll leave to your imagination. Let’s just say I didn’t expect to see it here.
Early in the morning the beaches are nearly empty — just café workers cleaning up and moving tables. The water is crystal clear, with a stunning color. If you come early, you’ll see it at its best. From the main beach, facing the sea, you can spot a small rocky island about 500 meters offshore.
There are buoys in the water, probably marking safe swimming zones for kids. Everything is nicely arranged for beachgoers.
There are buoys in the water, probably marking safe swimming zones for kids. Everything is nicely arranged for beachgoers.
A small river flows through Budva — in some parts there’s trash, but overall it’s clean. We crossed it using a footbridge. Still, it's better not to swim near river mouths: when a stream passes through a town, it accumulates various pollutants, especially if the area lacks good sewage systems. So if you see a river flowing into the sea, just choose a spot farther away.
not the cleanest stream calmly flows through the town and flows into the sea
The views are picturesque everywhere — wherever you take a photo, it looks nice: the color of the water, the mountains, the sky, the boats — everything blends beautifully. Some boat owners offer rides, but they are not pushy about it.
Parked motorboats and small yachts offering various services in Budva
Budva’s Old Town is the local highlight. It’s full of narrow streets, historic architecture, charming cafés, friendly cats roaming around, and ivy climbing the stone walls.
the walls of the old town of Budva covered with ivy
In the small shops — more like a marketplace — you can buy souvenirs, Montenegrin flags, and beach items in case you forgot something.
One decorative pillar looked like a ship’s mast with ropes and flags from different countries — giving the place a welcoming feel.
One decorative pillar looked like a ship’s mast with ropes and flags from different countries — giving the place a welcoming feel.
Modern decorations in the old town of Budva, which emphasize its openness to tourists from all over the world
Montenegro left a strong impression: mountains, sea, architecture, greenery, and a peaceful atmosphere. It’s a place where you want to walk, take pictures, and just enjoy the moment. Budva is the coastal midpoint of Montenegro — self-sufficient on its own, yet ideally located if you want to explore more. The country is small enough that even four days allow you to see a lot — as we did. More about that in our other articles.
The view of Budva that I like the most.
P.S.
A few more practical notes I wrote down.
We purchased our train tickets in Belgrade at the station — according to many travelers, online purchase isn’t possible. Keep that in mind if you’re used to doing everything digitally.
Until 2006, Serbia and Montenegro were one country — historically speaking, not that long ago. Now they’re separate states. So the train crosses the border at night. The procedure is simple: no preparation needed except your passport. An officer just comes into your compartment, stamps your passport, and that’s it — both ways.
There is no dining car on this train, according to others — and I didn’t look for one. We brought food and bottled water with us. Whether you’re used to train restaurants or not, you should bring your own food or at least water.
Even though we weren’t traveling in the high season, we bought our return tickets a few days in advance as soon as we arrived in Bar. We recommend doing the same, especially if you want a four-berth compartment. There are supposedly deluxe single cabins too, but we never looked into them.
The train restroom may shock you with how basic it is. It’s highly recommended to bring your own hygiene items — at least soap and toilet paper — since they might not be available on board.
A few more practical notes I wrote down.
We purchased our train tickets in Belgrade at the station — according to many travelers, online purchase isn’t possible. Keep that in mind if you’re used to doing everything digitally.
Until 2006, Serbia and Montenegro were one country — historically speaking, not that long ago. Now they’re separate states. So the train crosses the border at night. The procedure is simple: no preparation needed except your passport. An officer just comes into your compartment, stamps your passport, and that’s it — both ways.
There is no dining car on this train, according to others — and I didn’t look for one. We brought food and bottled water with us. Whether you’re used to train restaurants or not, you should bring your own food or at least water.
Even though we weren’t traveling in the high season, we bought our return tickets a few days in advance as soon as we arrived in Bar. We recommend doing the same, especially if you want a four-berth compartment. There are supposedly deluxe single cabins too, but we never looked into them.
The train restroom may shock you with how basic it is. It’s highly recommended to bring your own hygiene items — at least soap and toilet paper — since they might not be available on board.
