Aleksinac. A quiet part of Serbia I wanted to truly experience… so I went there.
A huge backpack with a capacity of about 80 liters that fits almost everything I need for travel.
When we visit certain countries, there is usually a list of the most popular tourist cities and places. This time, I had plenty of time, so I decided to explore the real Serbian countryside by traveling to the town of Aleksinac for a full week.
Why go to a place like this? My goal for this trip was simple: to feel the local vibe, see the real, non-touristic Serbia, and spend as little money as possible. A perfect plan for a solo traveler.
For me, Serbia usually means Belgrade — the capital; Novi Sad — the center of Vojvodina, the autonomous northern region; and Niš — a city in southern Serbia near the Bulgarian border. I had already been to all of these places, so this time I wanted something calm and less populated, somewhere tourism was clearly not the main focus.
Aleksinac is a town with around 16,000 residents, located about 30 km from Niš, the fourth-largest city in the country. Why did I go there? Quite simply, I was looking for cheap accommodation on a well-known booking website, and at that moment I was staying in Niš.
I'm leaving Niš by train.
I found what was probably the best deal possible: a private room in a hotel right in the city center for just 10 euros per night. The hotel also had a kitchen and a washing machine, which made the stay even more convenient. *(Photo: Nišava River in Niš)*
So I bought a ticket in Niš — either at the railway station ticket office or directly on the train, I honestly don’t remember — and took a local electric train in the direction of Belgrade. In less than an hour, I arrived at a railway station called Aleksinac.
Forty minutes on the train, seven stops, and I was there. The ticket cost around 1.5 US dollars.
train ticket from Niš to Aleksinac
In reality, the railway station with the town name written on it is not actually inside the town.
I had to walk or take a taxi to the center of Aleksinac.
I still had to walk about five or six kilometers along the roadside to reach the city itself.
I had to walk along the side of the road
But since I’m a traveler who is used to walking a lot and enjoys observing even the most ordinary streets and landscapes, this walk felt more like a challenge than a problem. For me, the distance only added value to the experience.
A sign for the town of Aleksinac with a greeting for those visiting it
After entering the town and walking for a while, I crossed a bridge over the river. It felt like Aleksinac was a smaller version of Niš: a river of similar color and shape, just narrower; hilly terrain; and the same architectural style. The houses, however, seemed larger and more spacious, which I explained to myself by the lower cost of real estate.
The Moravica tributary of the South Morava River in the center of the town of Aleksinac
The downtown is not very large, but its architecture reminded me of other Serbian cities I’ve visited — churches, tiled roofs, and familiar Balkan details. Everything looks similar, yet calmer. There is noticeably less traffic, no rush, no big-city chaos.
Primary school in the very center of the town of Aleksinac.
As everywhere in the Balkans, you can see graffiti on walls and buildings. It’s not always beautiful, but sometimes the artists really manage to make it work.
This is not a graffiti masterpiece, but it is the one I managed to capture :)
The wide pedestrian street between the buildings serves as the central area, just like in many other towns. Summer cafés line the street, and the overall rhythm of life feels slow and relaxed.
The installation "I Love the Town of Aleksinac," similar to which can be found in various cities around the world
In foggy weather, the mountains, hills, river, houses, and architecture look especially beautiful. I really liked it here — the place feels quiet and cozy.
A horse-drawn carriage on the streets of the town of Aleksinac next to the main buildings representing the infrastructure of this settlement
Aleksinac is a small town, and you can feel it immediately. Life here moves slowly. Many houses have low, transparent fences, and some have none at all, creating a sense of openness and living space.
A very wonderful hotel, small but cozy, where I spent several days.
Walking through residential areas and private neighborhoods, I noticed there are fewer dogs here, and they seem calmer. Still, be prepared: some dogs may bark at you, and if they are not tied, things could get unpleasant. In my opinion, this is the only real issue worth paying attention to.
In the end, I can say that this place will stay in my heart. I wouldn’t call it a luxurious destination, but it doesn’t try to be one — and that’s exactly why it felt special to me.
